Friday, May 24, 2013

Of Gins and Tonics


Little is as satisfying on a warm day than a good, cold Gin and Tonic.

Culinary bartenders can't help but want to make endless variations on this classic and to some extent that is great, so long as they call them by other names. Gins have a range of flavors. Some basic variations of this cocktail are to be expected by connoisseurs. These have mostly to do with garnishes that enhance particular Gin flavor profiles. A cucumber slice with a Hendrick's Gin and Tonic for instance.

Lets talk about basics. The primary ingredient that makes a great G&T is of course, the Gin. Hendricks is a top of the line marquee, balanced yet unique for its cucumber and rose petals. Nice and complex but a bit pricey for me. Bluecoat Gin out of Philadelphia markets as an American style Gin. It is well balance and complex but, to me, is too light on the Juniper and lacks an astringency I like. Voyager Gin, made in Seattle, is one of the best; rich and satisfyingly flavorful with nice citrus notes. As I've stated previously, Bombay Saffire is my regular favorite. Bombay has just the right amount of Juniper and the floral prominence of upfront Angelica, both root and seed. The Tippler is a bit of an Angelica fiend and so it is my favorite but it and Voyager are good enough to sip neat on the rocks. Of lesser Gins, Tanqueray is acceptable in a pinch but it is a one dimensional Juniper bomb. One of the things that distinguishes a great Gin is umami, that flavor property that ads sparkle and enhances other flavors. In Gin, this is attributable to certain botanicals like Angelica Seed.

Now let's talk about the other half of the equation. Let's talk about tonics. It is slightly less than criminal to take a great Gin and dump in that cheap stuff that passes for tonic on supermarket shelves, excusable only for lack of alternatives. Until recently. I tried Tomr's Tonic which comes in a concentrate you add to seltzer. It isn't bad but it has a strong herbal and cinnamon flavor that can get in the way of the Gin. My favorite is the Q Tonic which is refreshing and has the complimentary umami of quinine but doesn't get in the way. This stuff raises the bar on what a Gin and Tonic can be. Fever-Tree is nice as well. Unfortunately these are expensive at $5.00 a bottle but well worth it. New on the market is Quinetum developed by the producers of Hendrick's Gin but I've yet to come across it yet.

Last but not to be forgotten are those garnishes. Gins, having complex flavors, can go more than one way depending on a garnish. I don't always use one but a Lime slice is basic and complimentary, enhancing the thirst-quenching refreshment a G&T can provide. Olives are also good and I particularly like Spanish cracked herbed olives though I usually reserve them for Martinis.. Cucumber is nice as well, upping that umami even more.

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