In Praise of Absinthe

In this orb of war, tears and grief
I pause to appreciate the moment's peace --

Drop by drop water slowly
into emerald nectar blooms
the cumulus spirit
of woe's surcease

O cloud of joy
and respite!
O heaven of
Artemis and Anise!

I raise my goblet at dusk
and praise with delight
all things of beauty and ease.

Absinthe is the absolute queen of culinary botanical liquors. It is certainly one of the finest things I've found in this life. It is as if beauty can be distilled. It is a personal obsession and I savor it regularly. I love to sip it as I cook dinner. It is an aperitif which prepares your stomach and excites your palate.

Though much maligned and misunderstood, Absinthe has a rich history. I can say from extensive personal experience that, while for some, it may enhance aesthetic awareness, it is not a drug or hallucinogen even in large quantity. if anything, properly watered, it is a gentle spirit when enjoyed in moderation.

Understanding how to prepare it is vital. Never take it neat. At 72% alcohol it will erode your throat and it certainly will not taste its best. Never light it on fire. The clip at the top of this post is a good demonstration of proper preparation though using sugar or not is a matter of taste. As Absinthe is generally sweet, many of us do not use sugar. The proper preparation of Absinthe is not rushed. It takes time. Watching it bloom in the glass from beautiful peridot green to dense cloudy opalescence as it opens up and fills the room with the scents of a summer garden is an essential part of the experience. One places a full shot, or an ounce and a half of Absinthe, in the goblet and slowly adds cold spring water. It is usually between 1 to 3 and 1 to 4 parts Absinthe to water; again to taste.

Like other botanical liquors including Gin, Chartreuse, and Benedictine it is a complex combination of plant essences, the most prominent being Anise, Fennel and Wormwood. Other basics include Hyssop, Lemon balm and Roman Wormwood, a primary ingredient in Vermouth.

Absinthes can vary greatly in range and quality and there is a lot of vile swill that permeates the market. Avoid anything with a picture of Vincent Van Gogh on the label; anything that appears florescent green and anything that advertises "high thujone" or promises visions. Never light it on fire or accept others doing so. Some of the Finest commercial brands, in my opinion, are, Vieux Pontarlier, Jade Edouard or Jade Suisse Verte, Le Ancienne, Pacifique and Walton Waters. The last two are made in the US. None of these are quite as good as some of the century old samples I've had the good fortune to try or, for that matter, some of the non-commerical, small batch varieties made by a dedicated few. The botanical requirements, demands and unfortunate regulations of the modern commercial market remain obstacles that impede the quality of commercial Absinthes today but unless you know somebody, the brands I mentioned will certainly provide satisfaction.

Aside from the pure enjoyment of savoring this heavenly nectar, Absinthe is also an important ingredient in classic cocktails like the Sazerac as well as a few I mentioned in other posts including the Horsethief.