The holiday season is again upon us. The endless commercials, the incessant jingle of Christmas carols, the relatives piling in with gifts large and small, the dwindling bank account and hopeful doe eyes of expectant children. Let's not forget the house preparations and the tree – that awful bit of shedding or reassembled symbolism demanding rearranged furnishings and lights – that terrible tangle of lights!
All of this brings to mind the rich amber warming spirit of well made whiskey. Winter is whiskey season. This is not true for all of us. Having worked for years in substance abuse, helping alcoholics stop drinking, I know the serious damage alcohol and drug abuse can wreak. However, for those of us fortunate enough to not have that genetic tendency, whiskey can provide comfort, joy and a peaceful if brief respite in hard or seemingly overwhelming times. I've never had much taste for the sweetness of bourbon. I can savor a good Scotch though it is beyond my budget. I prefer a good Rye whiskey.
Prior to prohibition, Rye was the popular whiskey of choice. Rye has a long history in our country going back to German immigrants in the 18th century. They settled mostly in Pennsylvania and began farming rye. Most settlers, being of British background didn't eat rye bread, so these farmers began making whiskey. Up until recently, Rye whiskey was fading into obscurity but there is a revival taking place and connoisseurs are rediscovering this wonderful variety of whiskey.
My regular and old fallback remains Old Overholt Rye. Its history is the history of our country, from German immigrant farmers to industrial production, later bought out by the robber baron James Fisk, through prohibition and beyond. This storied whiskey, the favorite of Presidents from Lincoln and Grant to John F. Kennedy is now, like most American liquor, made in Kentucky. This is a straight ahead, smooth and clean Rye but it is lacking in the woody tannins of barreling that often puts a whiskey over the top for me. I've found though careful research, strictly for reasons of scientific inquiry and at serious risk of incurring the calumny of liquor aficionados, that a drop of “Liquid Smoke” can enhance the depth of a glass of Old Overholt.
There are efforts afoot to revive the Pennsylvania and Northern Maryland style of Rye. Rye, originally produced in this region has a reputation of being spicier, rounder, more flavorful and chewier than the Rye made now. Evidence has emerged that distillers in the east used different methods than Kentucky Bourbon makers. Notably, they employed a sweet mash rather than supplementing with the leftover wash known as sour mash which yields a sharper-tasting product. Leopold Distillers in Denver, Colorado have had a Pennsylvania style still re-created and are promising the release of a Maryland Style Rye Whiskey made in the traditional Monongahela region style.
Bulleit Rye is available at about $30.00 a bottle. It is rich in the woody notes of a well barreled whiskey -- maybe too rich. Michter's Barrel Strength Straight Rye, like many Rye whiskeys, is part of a revival and claims to be the recreation of a recipe dating back to 1753 -- though produced in Kentucky. This whiskey has a particularly rich upfront oakiness but, bottled at 103 proof, it is initially hot on the pallet and benefits by a generous dash of water. Michters is rich and woody with a toasty complexity and notes of baking spice, vanilla and fruit.
High West, out of Colorado, is another fine brand which has found its way onto our local ABC shelves. Their Campfire Rye is a rich and smooth blend, as smokey as a good Scotch but with hickory rather than peat. This may be the finest Rye I've had. Other Ryes by High West include Rendezvous Rye and Double Rye, both excellent and spicy with toasty wood notes.
A new Rye actually produced in Pennsylvania by Laurel Spirits is Dad's Hat Pennsylvania Rye. It is another hopeful sign of the resurgence of this regional tradition. It is said to be milder tasting than the traditionally richer historic brands. I've yet to get my hands on this brand but look forward to sampling it. Other whiskeys using a blend including at least 51% Rye include Rittenhouse Rye and Russel's Reserve, both decent whiskeys made in the Kentucky style. There are high priced Ryes I've yet to try like Whistle Pig and Catoctin Creek Round House Rye distilled in Purcellville, Virginia.
Though I prefer to sip my Rye neat while sitting before a blazing hearth on a chilly evening, I also enjoy a rare Manhattan. This fine old cocktail is made with ½ shot of sweet Vermouth – any brand will do. I use Gallo. One and a half ounces Rye, and bitters. Now the bitters are important here. You can use three or four generous dashes of Angostura and maybe a drop of Orange bitters. I prefer DeGroff's Pimento Aromatic Bitters. And don't forget the Maraschino Cherry or at least a drop or two of the juice. I discovered just recently how well this cocktail goes with stuffing and gravy – a marriage made in heaven. This is especially true with stuffing containing smoked oysters and mildly toasted pecans. The sweet Vermouth, bitters and cherry pick up the cranberries with the Rye embracing those nuts and oysters and the divine dance begins.
Whatever you are sipping on to ease the stress of the holiday season, remember to pace yourself and not overdo it. Savor the moment as well as the qualities of the drink. The coming year, with its divisiveness and political travesties is guaranteed to provide us with more than enough reason to imbibe. So, Skoal! Salud! Le Chiam! Na Zdrovia! Jiánkang! Cheers, and whatever else! May you have a happy and memorable holiday season.
