Ringing in the New Year Southern Style

Happy new year to all of you. New Year's Eve is my favorite holiday, filled with gratitude for surviving and hopes for a better year, not to mention the wonderful combination of good friends and lots of booze. The Tippler likes to ring in the new year with the southern tradition of Blackeye Peas. Here's how I make 'em.

1 sack of dry Black eye peas
1 large onion, diced
3 or 4 slices of smoked Hog Jowl
1 Ham Hock
1 clove of Garlic
Black Pepper
a dash of Cayenne
a dash of Smoked Paprika

Soak the peas overnight. In the morning, fry the Jowl until translucent. Toss in the diced onion and saute until translucent. Add pepper, spices and garlic. Add beans and water. Bring this to a boil, skimming off any foam. When it begins to boil, add the ham hock and turn the heat down low. Let this simmer slowly throughout the day and until guests arrive filling our hoe with the rich smell of smokey, black eye peas. It is also traditional to cook a pot of rice to mix in with the beans making "Hopping John."

This dish is said to bring luck in the coming year though this has never been my experience. It does bring warmth and enjoyment to your get together and is best served with good Bourbon or Rye. A late solid bit of food helps soak up some of that booze which by later in the evening you've probably had plenty of. Happy new year to all, may the coming year bring you new and wonderful culinary discoveries and delights!

Brokers Gin

In my search for affordable but delightful Gins, I have discovered Brokers on the shelf of my local package store,

and a fine package it is!

This gin is made in old copper stills. It has a nice round, full flavor with juniper up front; peppery with citrus notes. This is an old fashioned Gin, not as sweet as Bombay Saffire and without noticeable angelica. At $25.00 a fifth is it more than a bargain. Great for G&T's and will hold its own neat or in a Martini.

Summer Delights

Your Tippler has been pretty busy with other things this summer. One of my favorite regional delights is our simple but delicious Hatteras Clam Chowder

12 chowder clams chopped of 1 pint of shucked clams
1 Onion, diced
1 slice of smoked jowl or 2 slices dry cured hickory smoked bacon
6 potatoes, chopped
5 cups of water
a pinch of Thyme
salt & pepper to taste

Fry up that smoked pork, add the onion and saute until translucent. Add the pinch of Thyme, salt and pepper and stir. Add in the clams (juice and all), potatoes, and water. Bring to a boil and simmer on low heat for an hour.

This is best served with saltine crackers and maybe some corn bread. A good hoppy beer is an appropriate accompaniment as well.

Boodles Gin

In looking at the top shelf Gins available in my area's state stores, I came across this Gin.

One thing that attracted me to it was that it states it has been distilled four times. This includes a triple distilled base of English Wheat. A clean liquor is a good liquor and those hearts are close to mine.

The other thing that attracted me was the price, which was almost $10.00 below Bombay Saffire and the Tippler, while a picky, picky eater and drinker, is a painfully penurious penny pincher. That said, I found this to be a very nice, high quality Gin; invitingly herbal and woodsy with an initial aroma of sage, nutmeg and cassia bark. Nice nuanced but present juniper behind the assertive spice and herb flavorings. This Gin is much like the Saffire but lacking in the Angelica root.

It works well with that Ramos Gin Fizz as well as with Q Tonic. Quite nice in the torpid heat of a Southern summer.

Avocado Soup

I've been too distracted lately to post and too hot to cook. I've been preparing cold meals of different kinds and remembered a wonderful Avocado crab soup I used to enjoy at a neighborhood Mexican style restaurant long gone.

Needing to play in the kitchen in spite of the heat I came up with this delicious version.

Avocado Crab Soup

Ingredients:
2 Ripe Avocados
2/3 cup Yogurt
2/3 cup Milk or Almond Milk
1 1/2 tbsp Fresh Lime Juice
2 Artichoke Hearts (bottled)
1 tbsp minced Onion
2 tbsp chopped Cilantro
1 tsp ground Roasted Cumin
a pinch of Cayenne
a pinch of ground Chipotle
a dash of Tequila
1/2 cup of chicken stock
Lump Crab Meat
Pico de Gallo
Salt to taste

Blend all of these ingredients except the Crab in the blender. Garnish with crab meat, about a tablespoon or 2 per bowl, and top with Pico.

I served these with fish tacos and Tequila Espolón on the rocks with a lime wedge. I delightful summer combination.

An Oldie but a Goodie

Many arcane pre-prohibition cocktails are, in my opinion, superior to the overly sweet juice-heavy concoctions of today which use such things as flavored Vodka. One such cocktail is the Ramos Gin Fizz demonstrated here.

Eye Openers

This delicious breakfast will impress, if not certainly wake up your overnight guest.

Ojo Rojo, or Huevos Avocado

Take one not quite ripe Avocado, slice in half and take out the seed. Dig out a little extra space for this or use a small egg. I had to separate a bit of the white before placement.
Preheat your oven to 180 degrees. Place the egg in the pit you made in the Avocado.
Sprinkle a little Cayenne and a little Chipotle powder artfully around the yolk. This can be done after cooking but I did so before to lock in the flavors. Add a sprinkle of Salt
Sprinkle shredded Manchego or Chihuahua on top.

Bake for about 20 minutes or until your egg is sufficiently solidified. A teaspoon of salsa may be added artfully as well before serving.

This can be accompanied by a nice cold Chihuahua--
a shot of Tequila in a glass of Grapefruit Juice or a Tequila Screwdriver -- As shot of Tequila in a glass of Orange Juice.

Bon Appetit and here's lookin' at you, kid.

Cooking with Absinthe

This is my recipe for Escargot Montmartre



1 stick of unsalted sweet cream Butter
1 can of Escargots (snails) washed
4 cloves of Garlic, minced
Morels, truffles, or sliced Crimini Mushrooms
Pinch of Dill
Pinch of Tarragon
½ cup of Absinthe (verte)
Salt to taste

Divide butter in thirds. Soften two thirds, blend with Dill and Tarragon and set aside. On a medium heat, melt the remaining third in a skillet and saute mushrooms. Toss in Garlic and Escargots and toss around for a few minutes. Add Absinthe and simmer until it is reduced with the alcohol being cooked off.

If you want to get fancy and impress your guests, you might briefly flammbé but be sure to have a pot cover ready. When reduced, mix in your herbed, softened butter and turn off the heat. The Butter will combine with the reduced absinthe and thicken a bit. This can be garnished with fresh Italian Parsley. I like to serve this with Penne Pasta.

Of course this is best enjoyed after a few goblets of the Green Fairy and goes will with a fine Pinot Noir.

Another recipe, and a classic is Oysters Rockefeller, This is the classic absinthe recipe, invented in 1899 by Jules Alciatore, son of Antoine Alciatore, the eponymous founder of Antoine’s in New Orleans. This popular dish was reportedly named for John D. Rockefeller because it's so rich!

2 dozen oysters on the half shell, drained
4 pans rock salt
1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened
3/4 cup finely chopped cooked spinach
6 Tbsp. very finely chopped watercress leaves
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh scallion tops
2 Tbsp. finely chopped celery
3/4 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. white pepper
1/2 tsp. dried marjoram
1/2 tsp. dried basil
1/2 tsp. cayenne
1/2 tsp. ground anise seed
1/4 cup absinthe

Combine all ingredients (for sauce) in a stainless steel or porcelain bowl and cream with a wooden spoon. Complete mixing with a whisk or blender at medium speed. Shape sauce into oval patties about 2.5 x 2 inches and 0.5 inches thick by scooping about two Tbsp. of sauce from bowl and pressing it into your palm. Set on a platter and refrigerate while you prepare the oysters for baking.

Preheat the oven to 260 C (500F). Wash the oyster shells thoroughly and dry. Place a drained oyster on each shell and set them 6 to a pan on the rock salt. Cover each oyster with a patty of sauce and bake 14-16 minutes, until the sauce bubbles and is lightly browned on top. Allow to cool 3-6 minutes before serving.

In Praise of Absinthe

In this orb of war, tears and grief
I pause to appreciate the moment's peace --

Drop by drop water slowly
into emerald nectar blooms
the cumulus spirit
of woe's surcease

O cloud of joy
and respite!
O heaven of
Artemis and Anise!

I raise my goblet at dusk
and praise with delight
all things of beauty and ease.

Absinthe is the absolute queen of culinary botanical liquors. It is certainly one of the finest things I've found in this life. It is as if beauty can be distilled. It is a personal obsession and I savor it regularly. I love to sip it as I cook dinner. It is an aperitif which prepares your stomach and excites your palate.

Though much maligned and misunderstood, Absinthe has a rich history. I can say from extensive personal experience that, while for some, it may enhance aesthetic awareness, it is not a drug or hallucinogen even in large quantity. if anything, properly watered, it is a gentle spirit when enjoyed in moderation.

Understanding how to prepare it is vital. Never take it neat. At 72% alcohol it will erode your throat and it certainly will not taste its best. Never light it on fire. The clip at the top of this post is a good demonstration of proper preparation though using sugar or not is a matter of taste. As Absinthe is generally sweet, many of us do not use sugar. The proper preparation of Absinthe is not rushed. It takes time. Watching it bloom in the glass from beautiful peridot green to dense cloudy opalescence as it opens up and fills the room with the scents of a summer garden is an essential part of the experience. One places a full shot, or an ounce and a half of Absinthe, in the goblet and slowly adds cold spring water. It is usually between 1 to 3 and 1 to 4 parts Absinthe to water; again to taste.

Like other botanical liquors including Gin, Chartreuse, and Benedictine it is a complex combination of plant essences, the most prominent being Anise, Fennel and Wormwood. Other basics include Hyssop, Lemon balm and Roman Wormwood, a primary ingredient in Vermouth.

Absinthes can vary greatly in range and quality and there is a lot of vile swill that permeates the market. Avoid anything with a picture of Vincent Van Gogh on the label; anything that appears florescent green and anything that advertises "high thujone" or promises visions. Never light it on fire or accept others doing so. Some of the Finest commercial brands, in my opinion, are, Vieux Pontarlier, Jade Edouard or Jade Suisse Verte, Le Ancienne, Pacifique and Walton Waters. The last two are made in the US. None of these are quite as good as some of the century old samples I've had the good fortune to try or, for that matter, some of the non-commerical, small batch varieties made by a dedicated few. The botanical requirements, demands and unfortunate regulations of the modern commercial market remain obstacles that impede the quality of commercial Absinthes today but unless you know somebody, the brands I mentioned will certainly provide satisfaction.

Aside from the pure enjoyment of savoring this heavenly nectar, Absinthe is also an important ingredient in classic cocktails like the Sazerac as well as a few I mentioned in other posts including the Horsethief.

Of Gins and Tonics

Little is as satisfying on a warm day than a good, cold Gin and Tonic.

Culinary bartenders can't help but want to make endless variations on this classic and to some extent that is great, so long as they call them by other names. Gins have a range of flavors. Some basic variations of this cocktail are to be expected by connoisseurs. These have mostly to do with garnishes that enhance particular Gin flavor profiles. A cucumber slice with a Hendrick's Gin and Tonic for instance.

Lets talk about basics. The primary ingredient that makes a great G&T is of course, the Gin. Hendricks is a top of the line marquee, balanced yet unique for its cucumber and rose petals. Nice and complex but a bit pricey for me. Bluecoat Gin out of Philadelphia markets as an American style Gin. It is well balance and complex but, to me, is too light on the Juniper and lacks an astringency I like. Voyager Gin, made in Seattle, is one of the best; rich and satisfyingly flavorful with nice citrus notes. As I've stated previously, Bombay Saffire is my regular favorite. Bombay has just the right amount of Juniper and the floral prominence of upfront Angelica, both root and seed. The Tippler is a bit of an Angelica fiend and so it is my favorite but it and Voyager are good enough to sip neat on the rocks. Of lesser Gins, Tanqueray is acceptable in a pinch but it is a one dimensional Juniper bomb. One of the things that distinguishes a great Gin is umami, that flavor property that ads sparkle and enhances other flavors. In Gin, this is attributable to certain botanicals like Angelica Seed.

Now let's talk about the other half of the equation. Let's talk about tonics. It is slightly less than criminal to take a great Gin and dump in that cheap stuff that passes for tonic on supermarket shelves, excusable only for lack of alternatives. Until recently. I tried Tomr's Tonic which comes in a concentrate you add to seltzer. It isn't bad but it has a strong herbal and cinnamon flavor that can get in the way of the Gin. My favorite is the Q Tonic which is refreshing and has the complimentary umami of quinine but doesn't get in the way. This stuff raises the bar on what a Gin and Tonic can be. Fever-Tree is nice as well. Unfortunately these are expensive at $5.00 a bottle but well worth it. New on the market is Quinetum developed by the producers of Hendrick's Gin but I've yet to come across it yet.

Last but not to be forgotten are those garnishes. Gins, having complex flavors, can go more than one way depending on a garnish. I don't always use one but a Lime slice is basic and complimentary, enhancing the thirst-quenching refreshment a G&T can provide. Olives are also good and I particularly like Spanish cracked herbed olives though I usually reserve them for Martinis.. Cucumber is nice as well, upping that umami even more.

A hot cup o'Joe

After a long night of drinking nothing beats waking up to a great cup of coffee. Coffee, like everything else in the culinary world, is something that should be savored, but it can range from hellishly bitter burnt swill to carboard tasting garbage to aromatic bliss.
In the past decade or two a whole generation has been ruined on the burnt bitumin pushed by Starbucks.

It is garbage. You can find much better brew at your local 7-11. Coffee, in the Tippler's opinion, should be deceptively mild. It should taste like coffee, rich with subtleties and flavors not destroyed by over roasting.
The best solution is to buy the finest raw Arabica beans and roast them yourself as any self-respecting food fanatic should. I am remiss in this regard but being an anachronist I do have an antique hand-powered grinder as shown above. I never buy anything beyond medium roast and usually prefer light roast. If you do not like coffee or prefer espresso, you might want dark or "Italian roast" but that is the only reason to buy it.
Also, as a lover of good coffee, I don't make pudding out of it by adding sweeteners, cream, or whipped cream. If you want frappochinos or lattes, don't waste money on decent coffee. Exceptions can be made of course for the ocaissional Irish coffee or other tipplers delight. A few drops of Absinthe are sometimes good as well.
Some of the best coffee I've had comes from foodie friends that roast their own. Aside from that, Larry's Beans authentic Nicaraguan is at the top of my list and as a sociopolitically conscientious consumer, it is also fair trade and organic. This coffee is enchanting, buttery with velvety tones of molasses and toffee. I've also had some great light roast coffees from Sumatra and Hawaii as well as Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee.
I welcome your favorite coffee reviews as I'm always hoping to explore the new pleasures of the best culinary experience.

Getting Around Food Allergies

As a foodie, what I really want is what I have yet to try a new flavor, an unknown spice, an exotic cuisine. This is both an obsession and an obstacle course for me due to an allergic condition. I am allergic to salicylates. The stuff aspirin and NSAIDS are made of. This means no vinegar. Also verboten for me are dark leafy vegetables like spinach (which I love) and vegetables like tomatoes (which I adore) as well carrots, yams, berries and non tropical fruits. What happens if I eat these? I itch like hell for days. A real nightmare, I know but I am creative. I can eat cabbages and legumes as well as meats, seafood and more. Being a creative cook, the challenge is to work my way around these obstacles. One example is how I manage to make Spaghetti sauce.

Red Spaghetti Sauce without tomatoes
16 oz of roasted red bell peppers -- not in vinegar
5 artichoke hearts -- the canned variety
small eggplant roasted peeled, and chopped
2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
3 cloves minced garlic
a pinch of sugar
a dash of salt
1 large onion, diced
fresh oregano and fresh basil
a pinch of red pepper.

Place roasted peppers, artichoke hearts (quartered), lemon juice, garlic, sugar and salt in a blender and puree. Saute onions, in olive oil, add herbs, a splash of dry white wine or good Vermouth is welcome. Add eggplant and puree. Bring to a boil and turn down low. Let simmer for at least 3 hours. Italian sausage may be added as well.

I will be working in more adaptations as I go along -- for instance, in the Arroz con Pollo I mention in a previous post, I substitute mild, tomato free Enchilada sauce. Getting around food allergies and living well rather than giving in to hopelessness is part of what this blog is about.

Beer

I enjoy the stuff and live in a growing center for micro-breweries. I love German beers, hoppy IPAs English Ales and Stouts, and Belgian sour beers. Unfortunately they do not love me. I am sensitive to the byproducts of fermentation and generally feel bad after consuming most beers and wines. Though I generally stick to properly distilled liquor, I'm likely to savor a good beer on occasion anyway figuring in the cost benefit ratio in light of the brief and tenuous nature of life. There is much more to be said about individual beers and I will do so in the future. As this blog is of a culinary focus, beer, like wine and liquor, is also an important cooking ingredient. One of my favorite dishes is the simple but delightful Cuban Arroz con Pollo I was raised with. It requires a hoppy beer like an IPA or a Pilsener.

Arroz con Pollo

1 chicken -- cut up, (or parts)
1 onion, diced
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 bottle of Spanish pimento stuffed gree olives
1 8 oz can of tomato sauce
olive oil
1 bottle of beer
1 tsp of Salt

Layer the chicken with onion, garlic and olives in a bowl and sprinkle with olive brine. Marinate over night.

The next day, brown the chicken in olive oil. Add and saute onion marinade. After a few minutes, add in the tomato sauce and the beer. Bring to a boil and simmer on a low heat for 30 to 45 minutes.

Serve on white rice, and of course, with cold beer.

A Thing of Beauty

I am a lover of botanical liquors. I recently ordered and received a bottle of Chartreuse Elixir Végétal from Absinthes.com and am awed by the beauty and complexity of the flavor.

This Elixer is the base from which Chartreuse was later made and like most botanical liquors started off as an apothecary medicine. A little history: In 1605, Francois Hannibal d’Estrees, marshal of the French king’s artillery, gave the Carthusian fathers at their monastery in Vauvert, near Paris, an already ancient manuscript bearing the title "Elixir of Long Life". Following the initial use of portions of the recipe at Vauvert, the manuscript was sent to La Grande Chartreuse. As in all monasteries, at La Grande Chartreuse there was an apothecary, Brother Jerome Maubec, who served the medical needs of the monastery and the residents of the local area with remedies made from local herbs, plants, spices and other ingredients. Early in the 18th century, Brother Maubec undertook the task of unraveling the manuscript’s complex directions for compounding the "Elixir of Long Life." Brother Maubec died before completing this challenge but, on his deathbed, he passed what he had learned on to his successor, Brother Antoine. Brother Antoine completed the translation of the recipe in 1737 and, although it apparently did not prolong life, with 130 herbs and spices infused into a base of 71 percent wine alcohol, it did have many curative powers. The monks became distillers of this medicinal elixir.

In my last post, I talked about Gin and my favorite cocktail, The Horsethief, which also goes by other names including the Obituary Cocktail. As a foodie and culinary drinker, I had to play a little with this wonderful elixir. First I added four drops to a Gin & Tonic and it was a glorious thing. I lean toward Bombay Saffire and it was a perfect marriage. Following this experiment, in the interest of culinary science you understand, I added a few drops to that Horsethief. This could be a permanent alteration, though a name change could be required; maybe a "Pegasus"? I'm open to suggestion by any who read this and try it.

As for the taste of the Elixir Végétal itself, it would be impossible to identify 130 herbs but what comes through for me is Angelica, Balsam Mint, maybe coriander and maybe a little anise. It is taken on sugar cubes as a digestive in Europe and can also be put in hot tea or used like bitters. It is an enchanting flavor well worth the investment.

Something Worth Being Mad About

An article in Gin in the New York Times Magazine last Sunday caught my eye. First there was the idea that, based on old Hogarth etchings Gin makes you crazy or depressed. Those etchings reveal the results of early British exposure to distilled spirits -- in this case Gin imported from Holland. The results gave rise to some of the same bluenosed prohibitionist propaganda that later surrounded Absinthe for different reasons. Like Absinthe, Gin is a botanical liquor with no potential dangers beyond that of alcohol though one may become "mad" about either or, like me, both.

The other thing that caught my eye was a recipe:

Fascinator Cocktail
Adapted from “Savoy Cocktail Book” (1933 edition)
2 dashes absinthe
1 ounce dry vermouth
2 ounces gin (I like No 3. London Dry gin)
1 mint leaf.
Shake liquid ingredients well with ice and strain into a chilled coupe. Garnish with a mint leaf.

My favorite cocktail is another, older version of this from the 1917 "Perfect Bartender" called --

The Horsethief
1½ ounces Gin
½ ounce Vermouth
¼ ounce absinthe
Shaken on with ice and strained into a glass -- no garnish. This is also noted to be a favorite of Franklin Roosevelt.

Paella

I love Spanish food and buy supplies from La Tienda as they are closest to me. I've been working on my Paella using their great chorizo. Not as good as this but getting better each time.

I love Rye

After a long day, little is as satisfying as a good Rye. Among the best I've tried is the Bulleit Rye. This is an example of the distillers art at its finest. The first whiff is of old wood apples and age and the promise is fulfilled on the palate. This is smooth and too good to mix. Save your Overholt for Manhattans or Sazeracs, this is too good for anything but a splash of water and deserves to be savored neat.

Life is short

Life is a tenuous condition. It is too brief for wolfing down inedible crap or unpalatable booze. Yes, I drink for the taste. I savor my every whiff and sip of fine liquor and of good food. That said, I'm an economically challenged poet, freelance writer, and undocumented philosopher so I have to savor creatively and use my own skills to go where money is lacking. One needn't be rich to squeeze the most sensory pleasure from life. I am a cook and a mixer of drinks. Better stated, I am an artist who paints with flavors. So that is what this blog is about. In essence, the hedonistic application of Epicurean values to life. This can include insights on the sensory enjoyment of life itself, reviews of fine liquors, commentary on food, and recipes for food or mixed drinks.